What does bespoke mean?
You may have heard the word “bespoke” tossed around recently, referring to everything from vehicles, to homes, to software. In the realm of tailoring “Bespoke,” of course, stems from the word “Bespeak.” As the story goes that 17th-century tailors used to keep all their tailoring material on the premises of their shops. When customers would walk in and ask for a suit to be specially made to fit their proportions, they could literally point at the stretch of fabric they wanted used for their item of clothing. That stretch of fabric, as well as the suit it would soon be molded into, were now “spoken for". Today, it encompasses the entire process of cloth and detail selection, as well as hand construction of a garment commissioned for a single customer.
What is the difference between "bespoke" and "made to measure"?
A truly bespoke garment has a new pattern created for each individual wearer. No modification or use of base patterns, as that could lead to missing some of the small nuances of the client's body. Achieving a bespoke fit requires multiple fittings during creation of the garment. Dozens of hours of hand stitching are woven into each garment and there are virtually limitless options on fabric, details, and accessories to be chosen. The made-to-measure garment is custom-made according to your precise measurements, with generous, but not endless fabric and with tailoring details chosen by you, and usually based on a existing pattern – striking a unique and well-priced balance The made-to-measure garment is also likely to be, at least partially machine-made.
How are thomas tillman BESPOKe's made-to-measure suits CONSTRUCTED?
Our semi-bespoke suits are half canvassed. This is not a liability, however. Our suits lay and fall in such a way that it is closely resemble our full canvas suit - giving all our customers a luxury look at a nice price point.
How LONG IS EACH APPOINTMENT?
Initial consultations can take up to 1.5 hours depending on multiple factors: how much guidance you need in the design of your suit, how deep your dive is in fabric, trim and accessories, and even how great a conversation you have with your tailor. Feel free to bring along a sample suit or a photo you would like for us to use as inspiration on your initial appointment. We understand your sartorial muse may come from anywhere, and we are ready for the challenge.
How long Will it take for my order to be completed?
Most orders will be completed within 4 weeks, however, in rare exceptions the delivery might be subject to factors beyond our control, such as fabric/trim availability and could stretch out to 4-6 weeks. Please contact us on your initial consultation about an expedited order.
What does super 120's mean? Super 130's etc.?
The word “Super” can only be used if the fibers are woven from pure, new wool. The number is determined by the thickness or fineness of each fiber, measured in microns, whereas the actual numerical value is the length of one single fiber in centimeters. The higher the Super number, the more luxurious the cloth since the fibers are longer, typically resulting in a smoother hand. Two-ply or three-ply means that each yarn is two or three fibers wrapped together, respectively. In most suiting fabrics, it is generally two yarns wrapped by a third. The super 100’s are less supple and more “scratchy,” but much more durable, making it the classic “workhorse” of suiting. The super 160’s are deliciously smooth to the touch but certainly not durable. However, if worn infrequently it could last for years. Higher super numbers are great for special occasions suits and tuxedos, as the fibers are more rare and spun into fine cloth.
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